We arrived in Kathmandu with little preparation. I mean, we’d heard stories and done some research. But nothing can prepare you for when you land in a new country and are hit with an immediate culture shock – in the best kind of way. Between the sensory overload of Kathmandu and the ancient Himalayan ranges, we absolutely loved Nepal. Here’s some insights into our experience in Kathmandu and the Annapurna Circuit.
My first impression of Kathmandu was great. Tribhuvan International Airport looked like something straight out of The Secret Life of Walter Mitty (my favourite movie). It was small, basic and inspired a sense of adventure. It helped that we were surrounded by hikers from across the globe. The border officer was extremely friendly; striking up conversations with us and stamping our passports with a smile.
However, once I left the airport, Kathmandu’s chaotic embrace began to dawn on me. We began to weave through the noisy, diesel-filled streets of Kathmandu. Despite its overpowering energy, over time we became far more accustomed to these busy streets.
Although the store owners seemed pushy at the onset, they were proud and friendly characters. We bought our hiking gear at Goreto Gear Traders where the owner provided fair prices without haggling because “it’s better this way.” In other stores, we met a man who was selling clothes that originally came from Stones Corner (near our home) and another man who was more than happy to provide countless tips for hiking in the Himalayas. “Do not try the yak milk!”
Although every walk through the street felt like a near-miss with scooters and buses squeezing through the tiniest of gaps, the streets were alive with excitement. The scents of coffee and exotic foods filled the air as we passed vibrant cafes and restaurants. Belle and I loved visiting places like 4 Stories, Pumpernickel Bakery, The Best Kathmandu Kitchen, and more. These cafes and restaurants offered a mix of Western and Nepalese-style coffee and dishes. We hadn’t even left Kathmandu yet and we’d already decided that we loved Nepal.
After days of preparation for the Annapurna Circuit, we set off at 4:30 am for the Gongabu Bus Station. Although we’d been offered a “tourist bus” by our accommodation, we opted for the cheaper and more adventurous option of finding a bus ourselves. The “sofa bus” to Besisahar cost us 800 NPR each after some negotiations and this was quite the experience. Vendors hopped on board selling goods, commuters jumped on as the bus moved, and live fare negotiations provided constant entertainment.
After an 8-hour bus journey, we decided to hop straight into a jeep bound for Chame. What promised to be 3 hours, became 5 hours as the driver stopped in towns along the way to say hi to familiar faces and drop goods off. Belle and I were tossed around the cramped jeep like pinballs but at least we weren’t one of the 10 or so people riding in the tray. Our driver navigated the roads with absolute confidence; one hand on the wheel as we skirted centimetres from cliffs, while he took phone calls with the other hand. Once we arrived I realised that a fuel container had split all through my bag. Far from the perfect start. In the coming days, this made it impossible to tell whether the altitude was making me lightheaded or the constant smell of fuel. That night we eventually found our first guest house, along with a new Chinese friend, and settled in for a cold night which reached -12°C. A foreshadowing of what was to come.
Our first day of hiking from Chame to Upper Pinang revealed the magic of the Annapurna Circuit. Beginning with green forest trails that were quite reminiscent of our West Highland Way experience in Scotland. We began to pass our very first prayer wheels which you can turn to send prayers and blessings out to the world. Continuing on we crossed our first suspension bridge and discovered an apple orchard town. This town was one of our favourite spots on the circuit, and one we hadn’t read much about online. Marpha is a stunning little village, surrounded by apple orchards. We were surprised to find a small bakery selling a range of apple goods. We tried an apple doughnut and a cinnamon swirl which were incredibly fresh and delicious.
Right: Kneeling next to a stunning stray dog in the forest
Shortly after lunch, we met a beautiful little Nepalese girl. She came running from over a hundred metres out to greet us. Although she didn’t speak English, her playful demeanour and infectious laugh told us that she wanted a treat. Belle offered her a Kit Kat and she was elated. Despite having such little, she seemed like the happiest person in the world. We couldn’t help but feel grateful for our upbringing, although she seemed happier than many kids back home. I guess ignorance is bliss but it’s what you make of your situation that makes the biggest difference. This little girl gets to make friends with thousands of hikers from across the world each year!
Right: Kneeling with the beautiful little Nepalese girl
Upper Pisang welcomed us with a warm dining room, a much-needed wood fire, ginger honey lemon teas and memorable views of Annapurna II glowing in the afternoon light. Our host was a kind Nepalese man who made every effort to ensure we were comfortable. He also educated us on all the surrounding mountain peaks we could see from the Hotel Mountain Bridge. Although we were tired from our first full day of hiking, we felt incredibly grateful as we called family from the common room.
Right: Belle sitting in our room at Hotel Mountain Bridge
The next morning we woke to a completely new landscape, transformed by heavy out-of-season snowfall. This was a complete contrast to the barren landscape we’d seen at Mount Teide, and our first introduction to the unpredictability of the Himalayas. Unfortunately, Belle had fallen unwell overnight with some form of stomach bug. However, with the trail buried and thick snow falling, the entire town of Upper Pisang settled into an unexpected rest day. With no data connection or WiFi amidst the mountains, we all sat quietly in the common room. This was the perfect opportunity to get to know the other hikers and a little about their stories. By the end of the day, it felt like cabin fever had set in. We all watched the weather closely and stared out into the valley and its surrounding mountains.
With the power going out, we enjoyed a candlelit dinner. I continued to trial all the dishes I could; this time opting for Tibetan noodles while enjoying Maurice Herzog’s Annapurna. We went to bed with hopes of returning to the track tomorrow, pending the weather and Belle’s condition.
Pushing on toward Manang proved to be one of our toughest days. Rather than opting for the low route (which is much shorter with less elevation gain), we ventured onto the more scenic high route. We faced deep snow, wrong turns and fading daylight which had us feeling physically and mentally wrecked. After having lunch at Ngawal with some new Kiwi friends, we made a directional error. Rather than follow the typical route down into the valley, we ventured up towards Chulu. Although it is a known route, no one had ventured this way since the snowfall began.
Right: Looking back towards Ngawal as the sun was setting
With no footprints to follow, we broke trail ourselves. Venturing through knee-deep, powdery snow. Eventually, we reached Lophel-Ling Monastery and could no longer see any trail markings. We considered traversing the side of the mountain into the valley but instead opted to return to Ngawal as the dark was falling. We called out for help in a small shepherd’s village but the only reply was stray dogs barking. The return descent was much quicker and easier. This day taught us the importance of travelling in groups and asking for advice.
The following day we pushed on to the beautiful Manang via the lower route. As we trekked, we passed countless yaks. With their calm demeanour, you could pass right by their horns without ever feeling threatened. This day was much easier going and we trekked along many familiar faces that’d become friends. We even met an Australian man and his wife who were trekking in celebration of his 60th birthday. It was great to hear a familiar accent from home and have a very ‘Australian’ exchange. Although we chatted briefly, the whole experience made me feel reinvigorated.
Right: A yak standing by the roadside
A cozy, chalet-style lodge awaited us in Manang, complete with hot food. The heavy snowfall continued, causing our Lake Tilicho plans to be cancelled. Although, this afforded us an extra day in Manang. In hindsight, these forced rest days gifted us a ‘slower’ experience. This meant we could notice the small details more; reading, wandering shops and chatting to hikers by the warmth of the heater.
With the snow finally relenting, we pushed on to Yak Kharka. Here we shared an entire guesthouse with an older woman from Norway. She was a friendly soul and had plenty of great stories, having visited Nepal over 15 times. In an unlikely matchup, Belle and I watched this woman take on the Nepalese guesthouse owner in a highly entertaining game of chess. Talk about two opposing worlds colliding…
Right: Belle standing in the snow, on route to Yak Kharka
Continuing our climb towards High Camp proved to be tough going. Belle still hadn’t shaken the niggling stomach bug and we shuffled slowly as we approached 5,000m elevation. Despite this, the views were truly magnificent. The trail tightly hugged the mountainside. We had the track to ourselves early in the morning, surrounded by glistening peaks and a bluebird day. It felt like we were finally deep in the Himalayas. Plus, the trekking had become far more technical with deep snow and ice, and we welcomed this challenge with open arms.
Once we crossed the extremely long suspension bridge to Thorong Phedi, we decided to call it a day here. The town felt more like a small outpost, clinging to the slope beneath one of the world’s highest passes. We opted for the guesthouse sitting above Thorong Phedi. Our room was tiny but the view was the perfect consolation. And we’d have plenty of time to enjoy the sights as we opted to spend an additional acclimatisation day here.
Right: Belle about to step onto the suspension bridge
Belle took things slowly, trying to rest as much as possible. Much like our other stays, the family running this guesthouse did everything they could to help. Boiling water, salt rocks, vegetable soups, advice and reassurance. I used this day as an opportunity to venture up to High Camp. Without the weight of my bag, the climbing felt effortless. With microspikes and poles in hand, I navigated the switchbacks for 30 minutes as I approached High Camp. I even ventured higher to the High Camp View Point, where I almost touched 5,000m elevation. I was lucky to share this view with an American man and trade stories about our experiences on the circuit. The descent evoked a sense of flow and freedom as I skirted between oncoming hikers. I rested the remainder of the day, dreaming about the Thorong La Pass.
Summit morning we arose at 3 am. Battling negative temperatures and arctic breezes, we joined other hikers in the common room. But within minutes of beginning our ascent, Belle knew something wasn’t right. Despite her strong will to reach the pass, we made the smart decision to turn around and return. It wasn’t worth risking her health to simply cross the pass.
After some rest, the owner graciously guided us down a quieter, faster path towards Ledar. Although we’d missed summitting, this path was incredible. With not a soul in sight, we skirted along the opposing mountainside to prior days and crossed a small footbridge before reaching Ledar. The way he glided along the icy path in joggers was a true testament to the Nepalese people’s hiking expertise.
Right: Following Belle and our guide as we descend towards Ledar
We bid farewell to this kind man and within several hours, made it back to Manang. By a stroke of luck, we found a guesthouse with free warm showers. We appreciated this immensely. Such a simple thing provided us with an indescribable amount of joy. It felt like the stress and exhaustion of prior days had finally lifted. We’d completed our last day of hiking in the Himalayas. Another silver lining of exiting the circuit in this direction was that we got to experience the same jeep journey again, taking in some of our early familiar sights. This included visiting our favourite little village and grabbing some more baked apple delights!
In the end, reaching Thorong La Pass wasn’t our most memorable moment, but instead it was all the small details along the way. In the past, I’d never hiked this slower style but I can definitely say that I’m converted. This isn’t a hike where you rush from town to town; instead, immerse yourself in each village. Support the locals, speak to strangers and appreciate this beautiful part of the world. We learnt so much from this incredible country, and I can’t wait to return one day.
