Last year, I spent two weeks exploring New Zealand’s incredibly raw and beautiful South Island on the fringe of winter. As an avid outdoorsman, the plan was simple: find waves across the island and take the path less travelled. The first week, I was solo in a camper van before my dad joined for week two. This blog isn’t a guide by any means, but a collection of my favourite spots, laid out in the order I visited them, and what made them memorable.
Taylor’s Mistake
After picking up my camper van in Christchurch, I headed straight for the coastline. A bit of research pointed me to Taylor’s Mistake, a sheltered bay offering both surf and running potential. While the waves weren’t cooperating, it gave me the chance to lace up the shoes and run the Godley Head Track. The trail carved along a dramatic headland, with the ocean to my left and rolling hills dotted with sheep to my right. Locals passed by with a nod as the afternoon sun lit the cliffs. It wasn’t the surf I hoped for, but a perfect introduction to the island’s raw beauty.
Kaikoura
I left my wild campsite at New Brighton Beach before dawn, eager to explore further north along the east coast. Kaikoura had long been on my radar, known for its deep-sea canyon, marine life, and powerful winter swells. The two-hour drive flew by; part anticipation, part scenic overload from the amber-lit countryside. As I hit the coast at Oaro, clean lines rolled in along the rocks hugging the highway. By the time I reached the Kahutara River Bridge, I knew I’d found the spot. Overhead waves broke off the headland, and I quickly pulled on my 5mm wetsuit, hood and all, scrambling along the rocks and onto the black sand. I paddled out alongside two friendly locals, sharing the overhead waves under snow-capped mountains. It was my first surf in New Zealand, and one I won’t forget.
Below are some clips from my first surf at Kaikoura before my GoPro froze. Please be kind – I’ve never surfed in water that cold before!
Alex Knob Hike near Franz Josef
Driving the West Coast from Carter’s Beach into Glacier Country felt surreal, characterised by rugged, empty roads with dramatic backdrops at every turn. We passed places like the Punakaiki Rocks and remote beach towns such as Hokitika before arriving in Franz Josef. Our first hike in Glacier Country was a big one: the 17km Alex Knob Track. Starting in the dense forest near Franz Josef, we zigzagged uphill through changing landscapes, from mossy beech trees to sub-alpine scrub. The climb was steady but rewarded us with views at the Rata and Christmas lookouts, which only built anticipation for the summit. Eventually, the bush cleared to expose sweeping views of the Southern Alps, and shortly after, the Franz Josef Glacier came into sight. We weren’t close enough to touch it, but the sense of scale was incredible and certainly worth the 8 hour challenge.
Milford Sound
Milford Sound was always going to be a non-negotiable on this trip, but after days of incredible scenery, I quietly wondered if it would live up to the hype. It did. The drive from Te Anau into Fiordland was magical; misty lakes, thick rainforest, and alpine peaks around every corner. But it wasn’t until we passed through the Homer Tunnel that the full grandeur of the Sound hit us. Towering cliffs rose in every direction. We joined a boat tour under rare blue skies, which cast dramatic shadows across the water and sharpened the mountain reflections. Waterfalls poured off cliffs, and we even sat beneath one, feeling the spray as we drifted underneath. Looking out to the open Tasman Sea from the far end of the Sound was a moment of pure awe.
Queenstown
Queenstown is famous for its winter sports, but we arrived just before the season kicked off. The town still buzzed with energy; skiers waiting for snow, backpackers filling the cafes and bars. It reminded me of Hakuba in Japan: energetic, lively, and mountainous. We spent the first couple of days taking it easy, then set out to hike the Tiki Trail, a steep, short path winding from the gondola base through dense forest to Bob’s Peak. It’s a great alternative to paying for the lift, with sweeping views of Lake Wakatipu along the way. Keen to go further, we pushed on toward the Ben Lomond summit. Unfortunately, worsening weather and ice on the trail forced us to turn back before reaching the top, but it was a fun challenge and a hike I’d love to revisit.
Dunedin
Crossing from the West Coast to the East, we arrived in Dunedin, a city I knew from surf videos and stories of its vibrant uni culture. We camped just steps from St Kilda Beach, ready to make the most of our short stay. The next morning, I braved the 4°C chill barefoot across the campsite to check the surf. A solid swell was hitting the bay, maybe a little too solid. Still, I suited up and paddled out with a few scattered locals. It took ages to punch through the relentless sets, and the size had me sitting deeper than expected with thoughts of sharks in the back of my head. I picked off a few fun waves, although many were closing out. Under-gunned and brain-frozen with my 1mm wetsuit hood, I called it a day, but the session left a lasting impression as one of the only surfs I scored on the East Coast.
Two weeks on the South Island barely scratched the surface, but it offered everything I was chasing; empty coastlines, powerful swells, and challenging hikes. What I loved most was how quickly the scenery could shift: one day surfing beneath snow-capped mountains, the next hiking through sub-alpine bush or drifting past waterfalls in a glacial fjord. It’s a place that rewards curiosity and spontaneity, and somewhere I can’t wait to revisit in the near future.
